Lebanon, Al Mina

 

Leaving Byblos I am soon making slow “S turns” along the highway pass good size red and white striped barriers. I find this interesting and I get the video tape rolling (ok, that is so old school). What seems to be to be an old military check point turns out to be an active one and I quickly put away my recording device.

Although it maybe different here I had an interesting experience doing almost the same thing at a border crossing into Israel a few years ago. I have learned my lesson.

As it turns out, I along with about every other car on the route are freely allowed to pass. Beyond the check point the landscape begins to change into mountainous terrain. On my right, I now get a glimpse of towering snow capped mountains.

 

 

Al Mina Mosque

 

Soon I see an exit for The Cedars but continue on for about another 20kms to the seaside community of Al Mina just outside of Tripoli. With the time being later in the day than planned and earlier warnings of rebel issues in some areas of Tripoli, I remain for only a brief time at Al Mina.

 

 

From the seaside docks I enjoy views of the area that made the drive for me definitely worthwhile.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Bangkok, How Deep Is Beauty

 

Still feeling relaxed but lacking in the beauty department, I head over to one of Bangkok's unusual theaters for maybe some beauty tips.

I can see that my self researching tips may come at an expensive price as I say good-bye to THB$1200. If all else fails, I do get one free drink for my THB$1200.

It's about 8:10pm and I am descending down a set of spiraling stairs against a mirrored wall. I am inside the Asia Hotel where one by one an almost over friendly staff welcomes guests to The Playhouse Theater.

Our free drinks are served while the house lights are up and it is well past the 8:15pm show time before the house lights are finally turned down.

A lengthy and loud introduction soundtrack is played as we can see and hear commotion going on behind the still closed stage curtains. Obviously, the “Quiet On The Set or Positions Please” call has not been made.

 

“Come with me and you will be in a world of pure imagination”

 

 

I accept the inviting challenge of the opening act and forget that I am in a theater with only about thirty people.

 

 

 

 

 

I assume most of us are here because of our curiosity about the actors. It is not long before the calm invitation of the opening act turns into a high energy performance.

 

 

 

OMG, Has MJ Returned

 

 

It is taking a lot of my imagination to accept what I should be accepting. However, I can see how some theater makeup might help me in the beauty department. Learning some of the moves might also help update my John Travolta routine.

Over the course of the next hour or so the energy level of the show decreases every once and awhile but not for too long. From a tribute to Michael Jackson by MJ himself to a rendition of Fame, I am really enjoying the vigor of this performance.

 

 

For me, two funny moments in the show comes from seeing male ballerina dancers and learning the sad fate of a couple of “ladies men”, playboys.

 

 

 

 

The first one got two warning shots to the head (at least he was warned), the other happen to fall on a kitchen knife about ten times. I guess they both had it coming.

In my younger days I knew a man that would dance for you, in worn out shoes. He once told me:

“But most the time I spend behind these county bars 'cause I drink a bit”. I ask him, please Mr. Bojangles, Mr. Bojangles, Mr. Bojangles, dance.

For a group whose native tongue is not English this is one of the coolest rendition of Mr. Bojangles that I have ever seen.

No doubt The Playhouse Cabaret has a lot of missteps and is not destined for Broadway anything soon but this turns out to be a fun experience.

As the show ends I am still left wondering, really those were really. Really?

Leaving the theater we get the opportunity to take pictures with the actors  in exchange for sometimes aggressive request for tips. I don't mind as I enjoyed the performance and maybe they are starving theater students.

 

 

Up close I do discovery that some of them are not who they appeared to be on the stage. That's ok as I now have my imagination back and know the makeup thing is not going to work for me. I am going to have to find a way to be naturally beautiful or I might end up looking like this!

 

 

 

 

Lebanon, To Byblos And Beyond

 

I leave the comfort and safety of The Mayflower Hotel for what some may consider a dangerous or crazy idea. I am about to go driving in Beirut and through the Lebanese countryside where I am told drivers take road signs as mere suggestions.

This explains why during my journey into the city some “One Way Signed Streets” had two way traffic and some traffic signals did not work as far as some drivers were concerned.

Down Hamra Street I am in the mid-morning traffic rush although it is probably like this most hours on any given day. A few turns here and there and I exit West Beirut to join a highway along the coast that will eventually take me to Tripoli.

 

 

Another interesting aspect of Lebanese driving is how a three lane highway becomes four or five lanes by drivers choice topped off with a few honks as the process is accomplished. All fun to watch as I cruise along enjoying the scenery and the sounds of a local radio station.

 

 

 

 

Bahamas

 

 

A stop along the way at Wooden Bakery and I discover a first for me. A pastry named after my country of birth. Surprisingly, I don't have the appetite to eat my homeland. However, I am amused to see it in the form of a fancy chocolate presentation in Lebanon.

 

A few hours after leaving Beirut, I am at my first stop, Byblos.

Located along the shores of Lebanon this city is recognized as one of the world's oldest inhabited cities. Archeological records have been found here dating back some 8,000 years ago.

 

 

 

 

 

Byblos, Lebanon

 

 

After paying a small entrance fee and walking the grounds I can see why here would have been a prime location for our early ancestors. Today with an ocean breeze blowing the temperature is near perfect and the scenery spectacular. I imagine not much has changed here in that regard since about eight millenniums ago.

 

 

Early residences along with the remains of a Roman theater from the third century are just some of the findings that have been excavated here.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Third Century Roman Theater

 

 

 

I am not sure about the beginning of its existence but nearby is also an old souk (market place).

Although it is now modernized with the latest souvenirs and high fashion items available for sale.

 

 

 

I wonder to myself what a pair of Nike's would have cost 8,000 years ago.

Even with a language barrier there is no wondering the meaning of the sounds I am hearing as I watch two gentlemen play one of the world's oldest board game.

With a last chance to hit an opponent’s checker and coming up with an lucky roll of the dice I think I know the meaning of “Aaatt..”

 

 

 

Bangkok, Bald and Relaxed

 

 

After a few hours relaxing at a Starbucks near the Phaya Thai Station, I make my way back there to the BTS Sky Train.

For less than US$1 (20 Baht), I am just a few stops and a short walk away from my hotel for the night.

 

 

 

 

“He is, The King”

 

 

 

Checked in at another familiar spot in the city, I relax in the comfort of what seems like home then it is time for a long hot refreshing shower.

 

 

 

 

 

Wearing my backpack “Monday Best”, I am again off on the streets of Bangkok, in a manner of speaking.

 

 

My first journey is along one of the cities fun transportation avenues, its famous canals.

This time it's a THB$10 (US$0.50) fare for a journey that will take me to one of the main streets in the city.

 

 

 

For me, going to the barber at home brings on a standard joke and criticism of my financial wisdom.

“You have no hair”. “Why are you wasting money going to the barber?”

For the most part these criticisms are fair since I have had a bald spot for at least the last twenty years, most of my young life. However, as long as I have some hair, every now and then it deserves some special treatment.

At the moment, I am on my way to do just that and the only people that will be amused by my actions are those I don't know and a barber that will see it as easy money.

THB$120 (less than US$5) including a tip and about twenty minutes later I am bald but not quite yet beautiful. An excellent hair cut with a warm towel face wash and an old-fashioned barber razor edging.

I feel like THB$29868071.69.

 

 

Looking in the barber shop mirror, I am reminded of a universal truth that we all know.

God only made a few perfect heads, on the rest of them she put hair.

 

 

 

 

A few steps down from the barber shop and I am being twisted like a pretzel almost to the point of pain. With a weight on my body, I am bent from one direction to the next.

Except that I know my perpetrator's intentions are good, I would otherwise wrestle her free from me and runaway like I did after losing a fight to another girl in the fourth grade.

An hour later I am so relaxed almost to the point that I am afraid to walk. However, with steel determination I find the will to do so as my Bangkok outing must continue.

Lebanon, To Hamra West Beirut

 

Leaving the Beirut airport I quickly enter the “First Time Uncomfortable Zone” of driving in a foreign country. Although I have a generic map, it is now dark and it is not an easy feeling as I merge onto a dimly lit highway with huge trucks belching diesel fumes. It would help if I read Arabic but I continue on as if I know where I am going.

Soon I see two tunnels that eases my comfort level. I was told earlier about these by the rental car employee and now I have a sense that I am on the right track. I take the one on the right and exit onto a congested one way street. A quick stop at a gas station and an English speaking local confirms that I am almost where I should be.

Heading down a busy Hamra Street, I make a few turns here and there, head this direction and then the next, compete for road space with a few motorcycles and pedestrians, ask a few more questions before eventually arriving at my destination.

 

 

Unknown to me at the time I made my reservation, I am staying at a hotel that has a part of Lebanon's sad civil war history.

The Mayflower is said to be one of the only hotels that remained open during the conflict.

 

 

 

I am happy to see there is no evidence of the war left behind. I am not sure why but I am upgraded to a Junior Suite and will have room to entertain a delegation for the next three days.

Although it is later in the evening, checked it at the Mayflower, I hit the streets to find an old Middle East friend. Fortunately, I think she will not be hard to find as I have no doubt she is very popular in a city like Beirut.

 

 

At an ATM just off Hamra street I withdraw some Lebanese pounds and continue my search by sitting outside at Kaakaya Restaurant.

 

 

 

 

A Lebanese salad is ordered followed by what I consider a Lebanese feast. Humus, seasoned pickles, grilled meat, slices of warm pita bread topped with mint leaves and read onions along with French fries.

In talking with Kaakaya's manager he has offered to help me find my friend and suggest I should enjoy our time together with a hint of mint and lime.

 

 

Lebanese Feast For One

 

 

My food arrives and shortly thereafter my Middle East friend. Hours later I leave Kaakaya content with a full stomach and a big relaxing smile on my face thanks to the delicious food at Kaakaya and from being able to spend quality time with my friend, Shisha.

 

 

A Middle East Vice, Shisha.

Burma, Visa On Arrival

 

If you have plans of visiting Burma don't delay them as VOA is available and it is as easy as a brand new “Benjamin” or a “Jackson”.

I made my application online and paid about US$43 for the service with the understanding that I would pay an additional US$30 on arrival for the visa itself.

 

Although the email service from the company was slower than expected, eventually I received an approval letter and a list with my name on it from them. Both of these items I saved on my netbook to present to Air Asia when checking in for my flight and to the Immigration officials when I arrived in Yangon.

 

 

At the VOA desk you have to fill out another form and present one passport photo. The process could not have been any simpler or more pleasant as the officials were friendly and very accommodating. However, one interesting thing.

Your American currency must be in perfect condition as it has to pass the tough inspection of one Chief Currency Inspector No. 13. No folds, wrinkles or markings or bent corners. Fortunately, I had a fresh from the bank at home and well traveled US$100 bill.

 

 

One of Many Pagodas In Yangon

 

 

Once my visa was issued, I then proceeded onto Immigration and Customs where again the officials were refreshingly friendly and welcoming.

In the baggage claim area there is an ATM with dial up internet connection, I swear I could hear that old familiar dial up tone. Don’t pretend like you are too young to remember, I know you had a Vic-20 too!

Nearby is a Currency Exchange Booth where your old worn out, torn, dog eared and wrinkled Jacksons, Benjamins and even Old Georges are gladly welcomed. There is a varied rate for currency exchange with the hundred dollar bill getting the best treatment, as it should.

 

 

Being in Burma is exciting and with the ease of VOA, I would say start packing.

I think my new found friends would agree.

Lebanon, From Brussels To Beirut

 

From the boarding area in Brussels I can tell that my flight to Beirut will not be full. For me this is a good thing for two reasons. One, I will probably get to stretch out in coach and more importantly I will have a window seat.

 

 

Although it has snowed overnight in Brussels the skies are clearing at the airport.

With no de-icing required, it does not take long before Middle East Airline Flight 216 is airborne for Beirut.

 

 

This is my first time flying a Middle East airline and I am quickly impressed by the attentiveness of what seems to be by American standards an over-staffed crew. The flight attendants are very business like and seem more that eager to help passengers find their proper seats even on a half full airplane.

 

 

Our flight time to Beirut is just under four hours.

We are served (for free) a hot meal in coach which seems to be lacking on most flights in the United States.

 

 

 

However, in reading their on board magazine there maybe somewhat of an explanation for this. MEA has recently been granted a 12 year extension of it's rights to be the exclusive airline to and from Lebanon. This can be seen as somewhat of a competitive edge which may in turn allow MEA to provide a better product for its passengers. A win-win situation.

 

 

 

Approach Into Beirut, Lebanon

 

About three hours and forty minutes into the flight we begin our approach into Beirut under smoggy skies that clear as we descend lower. From my seat I begin to see “Paris Of The East” although the landscape reminds me somewhat of Manhattan, New York when arriving into La Guardia airport.

Our route takes us along the downtown shores of Beirut where I get a birds eye-view of Pigeons Rock before Flight 216 touches down ahead of schedule.

 

 

 

Vietnam, Good-bye!

 

It is our last morning in Vietnam and in few minutes we'll take a walk to a bus that will be taking us to Cambodia.

As I recall our time here, one of the fun if not crazy things we did while here was simply crossing a main street. Making multiple crossings and not being a “Hit” in some strange way made us feel apart of Vietnam.

 

 

Beautiful Vietnamese Artwork

 

 

If you come to Vietnam it is definitely something you may have to contend with. One piece of advise, just keep walking and I hope you will enjoy Vietnam and its people as much as we did.

Thanks, Vietnam.

 

 

Lebanon, Beirut A Gem In The Middle East

 

For many years I have had the desire to visit Lebanon although with the uncertainties and wars in the Middle East over time that desire had waned like the setting sun.

A few years ago while traveling in Turkey, I met a family from Lebanon while touring the Grand Palace in Istanbul and a seed was planted for me to think again about visiting Lebanon.

With uncertain and flexible travel plans for vacation I once again began to desire the land that was once know as “Paris Of The East”. As I stand on a train platform in Brussels, Belgium with practically numb hands from a cold winter wind, I am looking forward to in a few hours boarding a Middle East Airline flight for the warmth of Beirut.

 

On a flight that is less than half full, about three hours and forty five minutes after leaving Brussels I peak out my window and through almost smoggy skies I begin to see the outline of the paradise I waited so long to visit.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Approaching Beirut Airport

 

 

An easy Immigration and Customs clearing process and I exit into the arrivals area of Beirut International Airport.

Paying what I consider an absorbent amount for Wi-Fi access, US$12 (75m)I begin to put together my plan for the next three days and two nights in Lebanon.

With a rental car from Europcar for US$77 along with helpful information, a map and a little word of caution from the Europcar employee, I set out for the Mayflower Hotel in the Hamra area of Beirut.

My Lebanon adventure begins.

Luxembourg, A Winter Evening Walk

 

 

As I crest a snow covered hill from a cobblestone path, I am on one of the main roads into the city and I am immediately taken back in time.

Along this road are the partial remains of probably one of the city's historic entry gates.

 

 

From my vantage point I can now look down on another part of the city which is hundreds of feet below me. With rooftops covered in snow and amber lights radiating from the windows of some of the buildings, it seems as if I am looking at a fairy tale city.

 

 

 

Casemate Luxembourg

 

 

 

What I am actually looking at is the Casemate, an area built by the Spaniards in the 1700's.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Along a path off the main road I am headed towards Notre Dame Cathedral one of Luxembourg’s prominent landmarks. Built in the 1900's, at the entrance of the cathedral is a nice written display of the history of Luxembourg.

 

 

The two things that I find most interesting are the conquest of Gaul by Julius Cesar 58-50 av and the fact that the city was liberated by American soldiers in 1944.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Notre Dame Cathedral Luxembourg

 

 

Although the inside of the cathedral does not compare to Notre Dame in Paris the sense of calm and peace being here is the same as I view a still on display nativity scene while soothing music is played in the background.

As I leave, the bells of Notre Dame are tolling to mark another hour passed in the city.

 

My walk this evening follows one of the many designed paths that allows you to in about two to three hours cover hundreds if not a thousand years of Luxembourg history.

 

 

 

 

With night and temperatures falling I will shave a few hundred years of history from my walk but will have still learned a few things about this city which was founded in 963.

 

 

I stroll down now softly lit narrow streets to view The Grand-Ducal Palace, The Palace of Justice and The Museum Of History de la Ville as a light snow is beginning to dust the ground.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The Museum Of History de la Ville

 

Making my way back to YouthHostels Luxembourg, in some areas the intensity of the snowfall increases. This enhances the fairytale image of the city below that I walked by earlier.

I imagine warm fireplaces been stoked and I know somewhere out there is a gingerbread boy.

 

 

Vietnam, A Wet Puppet

 

 

An easy walk from our hotel is The Golden Dragon Water Puppet Theater almost a must if you visit Saigon.

This is a show that gives an entertaining presentation of Vietnamese life and culture in an interesting form of storytelling.

 

 

The art of water puppetry has a steep traditional in local Vietnamese culture and is connected with the spiritual life of the Vietnamese people.

For me, attending any theater production it is always amazing to see the talents of the performers no matter the art form. As a person that never mastered the recorder, I always appreciate this.

 

 

Water Puppets

 

 

The Golden Dragon Water Puppet Theater has several shows every evening that last about 50 minutes without an intermission. For about US$7.50 per person it is a worthwhile outing in Ho Chi Minh City.

 

 

Vietnam, A Saigon Secret

 

 

It is not until our last night in Vietnam that I discover what maybe one of Ho Chi Minh City's best kept secrets.

While walking to the Golden Dragon Water Puppet Theater we stumble upon something sweet that is as simple as ABC.

 

 

 

 

 

Sinful Saigon Pleasures

 

 

A quick calculation and I determine that if tomorrow I walk to Cambodia instead of taking the bus, I can indulge in a few sinful pleasures and not even gain a pound!