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Saturday, February 9, 2013

Bahrain, A Mystery

 

I leave Manama and I head across the desert of Bahrain south on the King Hamad Highway. As I look out across miles and miles of sand one thought keeps occurring in my head, it must be miserable here in the summer.

Even with written instructions I feel lost as the highway seems to go on forever across a desolate land with only a few buildings scattered around. Most of these I am sure have something to do with oil and gas production here.

 

ST76 JAN26B 008Eventually, I see the sign I am looking for and make an exit from the highway. I drive for miles along a road with pipe lines laying on both sides of it. At one point as far as the eye can see there is nothing but oil fields and small tent communities that I assume are for the people that work out here.

 

 

I know I have gone too far for my planned destination and I proceed to make a U-turn. From a gathering in the distance, I spot what I am looking for. I exit the paved road onto a gravel and sand one as I follow a truck that I think is going where I want to go. However, the road turns to more sand and I start to get a sinking feeling. At one point my car loses traction and I think it is time to do another 180.

Finding a more solid portion of the road I park my car and begin walking. A short distance through a wall construction area and then over a small barbed wire fence I climb a sandy hill to The Tree Of Life.

 

 

 

ST76 JAN26B 012The Tree Of Life

 

 

Somewhat a symbol to the Kingdom Of Bahrain, The Tree Of Life is a 400 year old or so cedar that has managed to survive in one of the harshest environments for plant life. It's source of nutrition and water is somewhat of a mystery.

For the Kingdom, most are proud that like The Tree of Life, Bahrain has been able to survive harsh conditions and remain a sovereign nation in this part of the world. For somewhat a symbol of Bahrain, The Tree of Life has not been kept in the best condition.

 

 

ST76 JAN26B 039Visiting here is worthwhile if you want to see another part of Bahrain and you are the type who can enjoy the journey as much or more than the destination.

 

 

 

 

 

Friday, February 8, 2013

Bahrain, Lunch Time

 

Although The Awal is an older hotel it's comfortable bed and my late night Bollywood experience makes for a late start for my day to tour a bit of Bahrain.

 

 

ST76 JAN26B 004This area of Bahrain seems to have a high population of Indians and when I spot an Indian restaurant filled with patrons (all men), I stop in for lunch.

 

 

 

 

I am somewhat excited by the dining experience that I am witnessing as there are no utensils on the table. Everyone is eating from tapas type serving dishes and they are eating with bare hands. Cool.

 

 

 

ST76 JAN26B 005Why A Fork For Me

 

 

I order up and I am a little disappointed when my meal comes with a fork and knife. I thought I had the waiter fooled into thinking I was a local. Obviously, my “Mar ha bah” did not work. Following what I saw others do earlier, I get up from my table and walk to the back of the restaurant. There at a basin I wash my hands and return to my table.

Admittedly, it is a little easier to dig into rice with your fingers than some of the other dishes others are eating. However, I think my act is still not that convincing and I eventually return to the fork.

 

 

ST76 JAN26B 006However, I did pick a part a fried fish with my fingers like a local.

As an Islander this is something I have been able to do most of my life.

 

 

 

 

One custom I pass on is finishing your meal by drinking milk. Milk is then poured onto your plate to sop up whatever is left behind.

Filled from lunch, I retrieve my car from The Awal free parking lot and set off to discover one of the mysteries of Bahrain.

Taiwan, Happy Chinese New Year

 

On a recent trip in Thailand from Ko Samui to Bangkok I had the good fortune to share a portion of my journey with a Chinese national. From my bus companion I learned a lot in a few hours about the Chinese people and a few of their customs especially as it relates to celebrating the Chinese New Year.

This is an important time for most of them as they celebrate a part of their legendary history.

Legend tells of a village in China thousands of years ago which was ravaged by an evil monster one winter's eve. The following year the monster returned and ravaged the village again.

Before it could happen a third time the villagers devised a plan to scare the monster away. Red banners were hung everywhere. The color red has long been believed to protect against evil.

Firecrackers, drums and gongs were used to create loud noises to scare the beast away. The plan worked and the celebration lasted several days during which people visited with each other, exchanged gifts, danced and ate tasty things.

Today, elder family members give younger members of the family red envelopes filled with money. For my bus companion she is excited to be heading home in time to celebrate the New Year although with a little sadness. This is her last year to receive gifts. Next year will be her turn to start giving.

 

 

TPE D1 007Taiwan Beef And Noodle Soup

 

 

For me, I appreciated the chance to learn more about the Chinese people from a Chinese.

 

 

TPE D1 011I start the eating tasty things part of the Chinese New Year celebration in Taiwan by having a huge bowl of beef and noodle soup at 3am along with a Taiwan Beer.

 

 

 

I am looking forward to continuing the celebration in the next few days hopefully at least dancing and eating more tasty things with a few hundred if not a few thousand celebrants in Taipei.

Thursday, February 7, 2013

Bahrain, Hooray For Bollywood

 

 

Like many others on my flight, I arrive in Bahrain with a plan to get a visa on arrival. Handing over my passport I am asked by the Immigration Official if this is my first time to Bahrain. Since it is, he informs me that they will have to check my documents then he directs me to an area to take a sit.

While waiting I meet another American who is traveling here for the first time. He informs me that he thinks they are checking our passports to see if we have been to Israel in which case we may be denied entry into Bahrain. If this is the case then I may be fortunate as my passport has been renewed since I visited Israel.

About ten to fifteen minutes of waiting and I am called back to the Immigration Officer booth. A US$15 fee and I am allowed entrance into “The Kingdom Of Bahrain”. Leaving the airport in a rental car I head off towards Manama to find my hotel for the night.

 

 

ST76 JAN26B 002 After driving up and down one way narrow streets and alleys even getting stuck behind a working garbage truck eventually I find The Awal Hotel.

I think even Magellan would have had a hard time finding this address.

 

 

After a quick settling in, I set out for a night walk in the area of my hotel but I do not get very far. The sounds of a unique music beat escaping from the building across from The Awal captures my curiosity and I step inside to soothe it.

With posted signs of “No Photos” allowed, a stage filled with women and a floor area filled with men, I think I have just walked into a “Gentleman’s Club” of sort. Ordering a beer the price of which confirms my suspicion, I take a seat at the bar.

From my vantage point I observe some interesting things going on in the room. Men purchase flower strings like lei's and present them to the women who dance “Bollywood Style” for or interact with them. At one point, one of the patrons even does a karaoke duet from his seat with one of the performers on stage.

The performers on stage remain fully clothed but what seems more odd than that is the fact that there are large tissue boxes on each table. As drinks are ordered it is noted on the box by the waitress. I presume the tissue is used to help stop the crying when the final bill arrives.

Welcome to Bahrain, Bollywood Style!

Wednesday, February 6, 2013

Kuwait, The Old Souk

 

Although by no stretch of the imagination would I consider myself a shopper, visiting famous markets in places like the Middle East in my opinion is something worth doing. Seeing the tons and tons of “stuff for sale” that makes the world go around is always interesting.

At first entering the Old Souk in Kuwait City is not that impressive as I enter through an area that looks like a war zone. Dilapidated empty buildings everywhere with stray cats and dogs roaming around alley ways filled with garbage and trash.

 

 

ST76 JAN26 029The real meat of the market area comes a few more steps away where the Liberation Tower can be seen in the background.

 

 

 

 

Like most other markets, The Old Souk is filled with rows and rows of all kinds of items for sale. From fresh meats and vegetables to clothing, nuts and even a fresh fish market. 

 

 

 

ST76 JAN26 030The Old Souk Kuwait City

 

 

 

ST76 JAN26 032In one area I watch craftsmen demonstrating their skills on old Singer sewing machines while making various types of bags and curtains.

 

 

 

 

However, for me the most interesting area of the market is an open spot where it seems like it is mostly men who are doing the shopping and bargaining.

 

 

ST76 JAN26 034As I walk among them I not only see all types of electronic goods and DVD's for sale but I spot what I think is one tough seller.

Sitting somewhat off to the side is a female merchant in what is no doubt a primarily male dominated area.

 

 

You go, girl!

 

 

 

Monday, February 4, 2013

Kuwait, Some Real Fresh Foods

 

 

ST76 JAN26 005A stop at a marina and I stroll towards a big building that contains a fish market.

Bustling with activity, here you can purchase some of the fresh catch of the day and some of the biggest shrimp that I have ever seen.

 

 

 

 

 

 

ST76 JAN26 006Huge Fresh Shrimp

 

 

ST76 JAN26 008I have to make several “I am just looking” comments as the fish merchants are eager to do business.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Connected to the fish market in the building next door is a fresh meat market. Here I get a first time experience inside a real butcher shop thanks to the locals who are so friendly and willing to satisfy my curiosity.

 

 

ST76 JAN26 012Realizing that I don't speak Arabic they call over a gentlemen that speaks English in order to extend their hospitality.

 

 

 

 

I get to watch the shop in action although it makes me nervous seeing one of the butchers cut small pieces of the meat with a buzzing chain saw. I do get to have my picture taken next to some home grown Kuwaiti sheep that are so fresh they are still dripping in blood. Sorry, PETA.

Next it's the fresh fruit and vegetables vendors with all sorts of goodies that makes me want to get a huge stir fry going.

Instead, I go into the supermarket portion of The Sultan Center to do a little shopping and hopefully find a date or two. After all, It's Just Lunch,Time.

 

 

ST76 JAN26 014Nice Imported Dates

 

 

I find my dates but they are not Kuwaiti Nationals. They are from Tunisia and Saudi Arabia. I get them wrapped up to go and then get an order of Lamb briyani from the deli area.

 

ST76 JAN26 016I hope it is as delicious as it looks.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Kuwait, Sand and Fog

 

 

ST76 JAN26 001I leave Times Square Hotel in the early afternoon headed south along Highway 30 with my destination about 20kms away.

There I hope to see some of the “Super Tankers” that transport Kuwait's most important product to the rest of the world.

 

 

Not far along Highway 30 the skies become covered with a dense desert fog. Leaving the highway and driving along the coastline, I have to use my imagination and map reference to know there is a beach and ocean waters beyond the palm trees that line the highway.

I arrive at the port area where I expect to see “Super Tankers” and I looking more at a military secure type installation than a shipping port. I am told by an employee that with the current conditions it is difficult from our vantage point to see the ships in port. Maybe at night through the haze one might be able to see the outline of the tankers.

 

 

ST76 JAN26 003

 

 

At a marina nearby the visibility is so poor because of the fog at 1:30 in the afternoon that you can barely see out to sea. The visibility has to be less than a quarter mile.

 

ST76 JAN26 005After spending some time at a close fresh meat, fish and fruit market the weather somewhat improves as I drive back to Kuwait City although the skyscrapers are still shrouded in fog.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

ST76 JAN26 023Fog Shrouded Kuwait City

 

 

My next destination is the Kuwait Towers one of the city's famous landmark or eyesore for some. About a US$3 admission fee allows you to visit the observation level of one of these beauties.

 

ST76 JAN26 020Approaching the ticket window, I feel like I have just arrived at Wally World.

The Kuwait Towers are closed for renovation.

Until when, nobody seems to know.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

ST76 JAN26 021 One less thing to do if you visit Kuwait.