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Wednesday, June 16, 2010

Turkey, Spice Market And Beyoglu

 

No wake up call this morning and I get to sleep in until around 10am. Tony returns from morning errands with fresh olive bread to compliment are normal breakfast servings.

 

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A late start to the day and we stop at a local mom and pop restaurant before another road trip to Istanbul.

 

 

 

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Mini olive filled pastries and lentil soup then grape leaf wraps with yogurt fill our stomachs for lunch.

 

 

 

 

SAM_0964 Lunch servings

 

 

 

 

 

 

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On the road again we are headed to the Spice Market which dates back to1597.

 

SAM_0966Turkish Rain ….Turkish Rain and I think Prince must be in town.

 

 

 

 

For the past two days the city has had a constant dousing of rain and it's continues as we walk across a plaza towards the Spice Market.

 

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Mounds and ….

 

 

 

 

 

 

SAM_0977 Mounds and …

 

 

 

 

 

SAM_0975 Mounds of fresh spices along with more and more stories over flowing with all kinds of merchandise.

 

 

 

 

SAM_0979 There is even one store personally recommended by President Obama.

 

 

 

This place like the Grand Bazaar is a shoppers paradise and we are not immune.

 

SAM_0982 For about YTL$6, less than US$5 we purchase a few “kilos” of fresh red cherries and small green tart Turkish plums.

 

 

 

 

 

SAM_0985 Outside The Spice Market, a large gathering of pigeons at a nearby mosque provide entertainment as they are fed seeds purchased from a pigeon food vendor.

 

Interestingly the pigeons know to stay away from the unsold food.

 

Canon 300 Inside the mosque more beautiful tiled domes and stained glass windows.

 

 

Canon 305 We relax and watch the Muslim faithful in prayer.

 

 

 

 

 

Canon 303 Facing Mecca

 

 

 

 

 

 

BEYOGLU

                                                                                         

SAM_1033 Rain is still falling as we go back in time with Tony. No longer able to fight of the Turkish Rain, we break down and become Umbrella Godfathers.

 

Located at the opposite side of the historical Istanbul we are in Beyoglu.

 

SAM_0998 For a few liras we board a modernized subway car on one of the oldest subways in the world, IERA established in 1817.

 

 

It is a one way ride as we retrace the steps Tony took to school many, many years ago.

 

Canon 310 Next a trolley car ride along Istiklal Caddesi but without the San Francisco Rice-A-Roni ... “lets hang outside” experience.

 

 

SAM_0999 Beyoglu Trolley Car

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Canon 316 Disembarking near St. Antuan Church we begin a walk along Istiklal Caddesi.

 

 

 

 

SAM_1012 A photo op at  Tony's old school, Galatasary High School then he excitingly takes us to his favorite desert spot, INCI.

 

 

 

Samsung 616 For YTL$5 we have died and gone to Turkish Chocolate Heaven taken there by “Profiteroles” a reverse custard filled éclair covered in chocolate. Fortunately, our calories are forgiven.

 

 

SAM_1023 Don’t worry I told them to save some for you.

 

 

 

 

 

 

SAM_1035 Past street vendors we continue our and it ends at a sculpture of  Ataturk the founder of the Turkish Republic and members of the new order.

 

 

 

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Another fun filled day in The Capital Of The Old World, Istanbul.

 

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Turkey, Topkapi Palace

 

Gud Niden (Good morning). The wake up and breakfast ritual completed for the day, we set out for Topkapi Palace.

 

Canon 291 Palace Roses

 

 

 

 

 

Just behind Hagia Sophia we stroll a garden pathway before paying YTL$20 for admission tickets.

A former place of government during the Ottoman Empire and home to a few Sultans, Topkapi Place was built in 1459.

 

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The Gate Of Salutation

 

 

 

 

 

Originally only the Sultan (who had to be saluted) and people working at the palace were allowed to enter through this gate.

 

SAM_0847 A rich collection of Turkey's National Treasures is housed here and our first introduction to one of them is a 15th Century pimp mobile.

 

 

A well designed and I imagine comfortable carriage used for transporting Harem members.

Along the outer courtyard numerous ancient sculptures and stones are displayed from across the city.

 

SAM_0854 This area is also part of the former kitchen which for fire safety was separated from the residential area of the palace. At one time the kitchen had over one thousand cooks and assistants.

 

 

 Canon 244                                                                                                                    Audience Hall where Sultan received foreign ambassadors.

 

 

 

 

Although it is understandable, it is unfortunate that picture opportunities are limited during our visit. Our first exhibition is a nice display of Sultan wardrobe which was all hand sewn from the finest materials. Here we see the first MC Hammer pants as most of the clothing seems oversized. Hammer this, Hammer that, everywhere even in the 15th Century!

 

palaces13A crowed line forms for the next exhibition and we soon find out why. The 86 carats, yes ladies 86 carats Spoonmaker's Diamond is part of what draws all the attention. I try it on but it is just a little too big for my pinkie finger.

 

 

 

 

ME0000083837_3 From vases to thrones and a special Topkapi Dagger (A planned gift to a Shah of Iran) all the items here are decorated with gold and various precious stones.

 

 

Some stones like emeralds are almost as big as MC Hammer's pants. You will need at least eight gigabytes of memory and then some to take it all in.

 

footprint-og-mohammed Scared items are also preserved and exhibited at Topkapi Palace. From Moses' Rod to The Footprint, Sword and Beard of The Prophet Mohammed (Peace Be Upon Him).

 

 

As we tour this section a soothing live reading from The Qur'an is heard from overhead speakers, it adds a nice touch to the exhibition.

 

SAM_0888 For an additional YTL$15, The Harem minus the ladies can be visited. A Harem residence can be seen as a part of your regular admission fee at Dolmabahce Palace so save your liras.

 

INSIDE THE HAREM

SAM_0893 Harem Courtyard

 

 

 

 

 

Canon 258 Harem Furnace

 

 

 

 

 

 

Canon 270 Main Room at Harem

 

Istanbul Canon 228 Beautiful Time Piece

 

 

 

 

 

Canon 267 Royal Restroom

 

 

 

 

 

 

SAM_0914  Flower Room

 

SAM_0929Leaving The National Treasury, for YTL$10 Tony and I become instant Sultans, what a bargain!

 

 

I wonder if we need some MC Hammer pants and a Harem to make the experience complete.

 

Istanbul Samsung 021 Two liras and we are snacking on my new addiction as we hike back towards Divanyolu where there are many options for dining.

 

 

 

SAM_0934 Offering free Wi-Fi we chose Can Restaurant which has an ala-carte selection of Turkish dishes.

 

 

 

 

SAM_0933 An eggplant dish, rice, salad and water for YTL$15 is a bit disappointing although being able to get online was worth it.

 

 

 

 

SAM_0943 On the way home we cruise through Tony's old neighborhood where he chats with tenants that live in apartments his father built.

 

 

He is proud of his father's accomplishments and I can tell being here brings back good memories for my friend.

 

Samsung 542 One of Tony’s childhood homes. Man,  I wish he still lived here, I would be driving a Mercedes Benz.

 

 

 

 

 

Tuesday, June 15, 2010

France – A Weekend In Paris

 

Map picture

 

With an opportunity to visit friends in Europe, I am en route to Paris. I am surprised that it will take almost 10 hours from Atlanta until we are informed by the flight crew that this is because of Eyjafjallajokull …. The Volcano still active in Iceland.

Touching down at Charles De Gaulle an hour and a half late, I head to the airport train station where I board the RER (E$8.50) to Paris. At Denfert-Rochereau a switch to the Metro and 10 minutes later I am met at Dupleix Station.

It is still early morning and we walk by fruit, meat and fish stores being opened as the smell of fresh baked goods permeates the air. I am craving a street vendor crepe with sugar and citron. However, with none nearby I happily settle for a fresh warm baguette and a fruit flavored mini pound cake.

 

Balcony View A mid morning nap at my friend's and her husband's E$1100 per month apartment … Kitchen, bath and one large room that serves as a bedroom and family room.

 

 

I am recharged from my Atlantic/North Pole crossing.

 

Crepe Maker There is still a chill in the air (10C/50F) as we take an afternoon stroll and find a crepe street vendor.

 

 

 

E$2.00 and I am happy with a sugar and citron crepe, Fernando has one loaded with cheese and salmon for a few more Euros.

 

Fortran Music Sounds from an old-fashioned organ music maker greets us as we enter Luxembourg Park, probably the most popular park in Paris.

 

 

 

Reflection Pond

Reflection Pond

 

 

 

 

 

 

Pond Sailboats Pond Sailboats

 

 

 

 

 

We enjoy the park with others before passing by Pantheon, Sorbonne University then an Irish Pub for good conversation and a few pints of Guinness.

A light rain is falling as I am shown other sites of the city.

 

Notre Dame   Notre Dame

 

 

 

 

 

Castle A Castle

 

 

 

 

 

Supreme Court The Supreme Court

 

 

 

 

 

City Hall Hotel Deville (City Hall)

 

 

 

 

 

Bikes For RentThese sites can also be toured on rental bikes available through out the city for E$1 per hour.

 

 

 

La Bonne Heure, Restaurant Bio …. 72 rue du Moulin des pres, 75013 Paris is where we will have dinner tonight. A primarily vegetarian restaurant that uses all organic ingredients, dishes are combined with stunning flavor and texture.

 

Restaurant BioA slice of salmon vegetable pie, sautéed broccoli, cauliflower, carrots and salad with sweet slices of melon mixed in … A culinary delight.

 

 

Sunday morning, we lounge around till afternoon watching the first 35 laps of Formula 1 racing then start out on another walking tour around Paris.

 

Picking Up Eiffel TowerThe Eiffel Tower is nearby but we keep our distance.

 

 

 

 

A bakery stop for “The Best Croissant” in Paris and I also purchase a tuna sandwich in a foot long baguette E$2.70 …. A pineapple juice, water and chips are a bit more expensive E$6.00. I am finding out Paris is not cheap!

 

Napoleon's Tomb Lunch is enjoyed with Napoleon Burial Site in the background … The Dome of Les Invalides.

 

 

 

 Bridge View Eiffel Tower

 

Next we cross one of Paris's most beautiful bridges towards “The French White House”.

 

French White House Located on one of the most expensive shopping street, it is not isolated from neighbors except for towering walls and a healthy police presence.

 

 

Sensing that I am American, a elderly French gentlemen jokes with me if Obama is coming to visit …. He is proud to tell us he has visited all over American …. even Montana and Idaho. Not for for business, just for his pleasure.

 

La Madeleine Next a visit inside La Madeleine Church, Concorde Square where we people watch then a lazy walk through Tuileries Gardens.

 

 

 

LouvreThe Louvre

 

Although rain had been promised, it turns out to be a beautiful day in The City Of Light.

 

Arc de Triomphe A metro ride E$1.60 and we are at The Arc de Tromphe also home to the tomb of France's Unknown Soldier.

 

 

 

 

France's Unknown Soldier

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Taj Mahal This evening we are dining at Taj Mahal … 8 Rue Humblot, 75015 Paris.

 

 

 

 

The Lamb Vindalou is just right and requires extra orders of rice and nan bread to finish it up. Two King Fisher beers and dinner for three E$52.00.

The plan to finish the night at an English Pub evaporates as we all realize that we are exhausted. We return and end the night watching a movie.

 

Me And My Fresh Baguette 6:00AM.  I am awake and soon we pick up another fresh baguette before boarding the metro for my return trip to Charles de Gaulle. My friends ride with me to Saint Michel where they disembark for school and work.

 

We say good byes with tentative plans to meet in Dublin to enjoy a real “Guinness”.

8:20AM. I have arrived at the airport for a scheduled 11:15AM departure on Air France direct to Miami. Departure is initially delayed until 2:30PM due to the effects of Eyjafjallajokull but we actually start boarding at 3:30PM then wait until about 7PM before we are airborne. Our route will take us south towards North Africa and then across The Atlantic Ocean. En route flight time is approximately 12 hours.

12:03AM. Four movies including Ratatouille, two music CD's, a few short naps and we finally touch down in Miami.

1:30AM.  Over 24 hours after waking up Paris, I crawl into my familiar bed and dream of returning to The City Of Lights … Even Eyjafjallajokull will not stop me!

EYJAFJALLAJOKULL

The Iceland Volcano has caused many problems for air travel to Europe since erupting and my guess it will continue to do so for a while. I know many airlines are doing their best with the situation with your safety being a number one consideration. If you plan to visit be patient and give yourself lots of flexible time along with a Plan B. Europe can be especially beautiful to visit in the summer, so don't let a little volcano stand in your way … Have a sense of adventure!